 Tournus - Saint Philibert Abbey The Abbey of Saint-Philibert is a beautiful example of the romanesque style of the Cisterciens monks, with their most famous church being the Abbey of Cluny. I just learned that this is the only church in Europe still standing since the12th century and it took almost 200 years before that for it to look like today: you probably know this story - how do you eat an elephant, one bite at a time! Well, these monks are the perfect example of that kind of patient perseverance. So, as it is Sunday, you might just want to go the Church if you are so inclined and cleanse your soul, as we are not going to cleanse your body over this trip any time soon! The winding road through the vineyards of Northern Burgundy An extensive road map covering most of the vineyards in Northern Burgundy What a gorgeous litany of names, and you might want to find a good hotel in Beaune before attempting what could possibly be a few days of discovery of the best PinotNoir and Chardonay wines on the Planet! Here is the shorlist of my all time favourites in geographical order: Chardonnay Chassagne-Montrachet Puligny-Montrachet Meursault Pinot Noir Monthelie Pommard Hospices de Beaune Nuits-St-George Chambolle Musigny Gevrey Chambertin Some of these wines can be extremely expensive and that's the reason why I may have had only ONE bottle of some of them in my entire life, like Pommard or Gevrey-Chambertin. Some others make more regular appearances at my table like Meursault, Vonay, Monthelie and Hospices de Beaune (with this one, I took advantage of Ultimo Wine Centre having bought an entire barrel at auction, brought it to Australia and specially bottled for our enjoyement "down under") So, it might be worth your while to look for deals and early releases to secure a few of these rarities for your own cellar without going instantly broke! One of my best friend's father used to be a "negociant" from this region and he still has a fabulous collection of Aloxe Corton dating back from 1949, and he has been generous enough over the years to share a few with me... Beaune Beaune - Hotel Dieu Even without the vineyards, Beaune would still be an amazing collection of architectural wonders, worth the trip in itself. The particular style of the roof tiling add to the very special character of the place. You will be charmed by the medieval feel of the town centre and it is a good base to explore the region.  Beaune - why not stay at Hotel Les Cedres for a few days?  Cotes de Beaune and 2CV Saulieu Saulieu - the most famous restaurant in the region - La Cote d'Or Bernard Loiseau is certainly one of the most famous chefs of the 70s to the 90s. He got his first Michelin star in 1977, 2 years after taking over the restaurant and at the tender age of 26, then a second one in 1981 and a third in 1991. He was obviously a very ambitious young man and his empire now run by wife and son extends to four properties including Loiseau des Vignes in Beaune and Tante Marguerite as well as Tante Louise in Paris. I have been lucky enough to eat dinner and spend the night at La Cote d'Or around 1984. And I was a keen client Chez Tante Louise for years, just not quite a regular though... Bernard Loiseau was so pssionate and so ambitious that when he lost his third Michelin star in 2003, he comitted suicide, leaving his wife and family in deep trouble. But to his wife's tribute, she managed to hold the fort with the help of their son, and I would say it is as sucessful as ever. This dinner was certainly a memorable experience, but unfortunately my memory is not as good as my 93 year old mother, who would have remembered what we had for dinner if she had been there then. So you will have to take my word for it!  The vineyards and wines |
 Bourgogne - Henry |  Cotes-de-Nuits Villages |  Hospices de Beaune 2007 |  Pommard Louis Jadot |
My favourite Burgundy Whites
Dijon
Dijon also host every year one of the biggest fair in France, The International and Gastronomic Fair which draws 500 exhibitors and 200,00 visitors
 Creme de Cassis  Kir normal! |  Cremant de Bourgogne Brut  Kir Royal! |
The Maconais wines and the Rock of Solutre
Technically, this region is part of Burgundy, but Maconais is an Appelation in its own right, and covers the South of Burgundy between Macon and Tournus. It produces mostly Chardonnay grapes, although the Pouilly-Fume is a Sauvignon, and Pouilly-Fuisse is a Chardonnay
Macon
Tournus
I think I prefer Tournus, as it has remained smaller. Besides it makes a more convenient stopover between Burgundy South and Burgundy North...
The hotel and restaurant Greuze seems to be shooting for (more than...) one star!
“THIS is the ONE- Go there and never forget each moment, each mouthful, each detail.”
"This restaurant could teach many others what really matters to the customer which in my view is a many layered, subtler experience than just the taste of the food. As customers, we do far more than just sit at the table and eat. For the time that we are there, in the restaurant he table is our space. Everything and everyone that approaches it is going to be noticed. We felt so welcomed by the Maitre D' and this welcome continued through the service. Our special occasion was heightened by the way each item that was brought to the table was placed so carefully and mindfully without impatience. Each course was brought with a reverence that allowed a flourish also, a brilliant service style that I would describe as quietly confident. The food was astounding- truly delicious. On the one hand it was as it should be in terms of technical delivery - tenderness, temperature and combination of flavours but on the other hand each mouthful contained the element of surprise and fun and uniqueness. Their style of skillful classicism combined with individualism ran through everything that we noticed and our experience was as significant to us as the first time that we tasted Chef Yohann's cooking 2yrs previously. We plan to make the pilgrimage again next year, staying in greuze hotel also, despite the fact that we live within easy access of London and working within Property Development for the food industry. The reason being that if something comes from the heart it goes to the heart. This came across to us loud and clear. How hard this team must work (many if not all, were the same individuals from 2yrs ago) to create this standard of well mannered delivery of this artistic food. nous vous remercions infiniment to all at Greuze- until next time..."
Bon appetit and bonne nuit! See you tomorrow for a northern Burgundy adventure!
Listening to Billy Joel singing "Scenes from an Italian Restaurant" where he highlights the vertues of white and red wine, I could not resist taking you further North of Lyon on our journey back to Paris.
Beaujolais is probably one of most famous names when it comes to French red wine, thanks - or not - to the popularity of the "Beaujolais Nouveau", a marketing ploy devised by the region in the 1980s.
But this young wine can be so bad most years that it actually backfired against the truly amazing Gamay based proper Beaujolais wines.
If i were to mention names like St Amour, Regnier or Chenas, chances are you are not going to identify them as Beaujolais. Et pourtant!!!
Other famous vineyards include Julienas, Morgon, Moulin-a-Vent, Fleurie, Brouilly, Cote de Brouilly and Chiroubles, not to mention Beaujolais-Villages and Cru Beaujolais, a more recent Appelation created just to try to wipe out the bad reputation of Beaujolais Nouveau.
I have to admit that I am the first one to rush to Ultimo Wine Center every November to sample the newly released vintage, and to acknowledge that it is a bit of a Lottery as much as a tradition! Last November was actually quite good, but the previous two years had a lot to be desired. But go and get a good year from Julienas or Moulin-a-Vent , and you will be pleasantly surprised. It is a light red wine which goes well with white meat and fish. It is the best choice to wash down the cuisine of the "bouchons lyonnais", a rustic fare designed to satisfy the lunch appetite of the silk workers in Lyon at the time. Its roughness goes well with charcuterie and "machons" , the traditional "sandwiches" served in these traditional establishments.
Albeit all the recent controversies surrounding George Duboeuf - the most famous "negociant" in the region, you will probably find that they are actually a good choice if you don't know the region's producers well and I would have no reservation recommending any of the wines marketed under their label. After all they won the most recent "Bocuse d'Or" competition for many of their wines.
Lyon, the Rhone river and Fourviere in the background
Lugdunum, as it was called by the Romans or Lugodunon by the Gauls andv means the Fort of Ligh, thas been there a long time and has transformed itself many a time. It was the capital of Gaul for centuries.
Silk weavers are (mostly...) gone and have been replaced by heavy and high tech industries alike.
The TGV and the new airport and industrial complex of Isle d'Abeau on the eastern outskirts of the city have revitalised Lyon which is the second biggest agglomeration of France with 1.5 million people generating over 60 billion euros. It is famous for its culture - Opera by Jean Nouvel - and cultural heritage - many historical monuments and churches - as well as its gastronomy with one of its most famous chefs being Paul Bocuse. Lyon is also very close to two wine regions, the Cotes-du-Rhone we have discussed on its South and the world-famous Beaujolais to the North. Burgundy is not that far away either. The Bresse region to the East is famous for producing the best chickens - see Les Saveurs du Palais film for details. Charolais to the North for its beef and obviously all the fruits and vegetables grown in the Rhone Valley and further afield in Provence.
Paul Bocuse - L'Auberge du Pont de Collonges - 3 Michelin stars since 1965!!!
Our own Tetsuya in Sydney charges only 210$ per person, so you should rush there and save on the flights...lol!
"I had been looking at the menu for months before going and had high expectations. From the moment we arrived until we pulled out of the parking lot, every expectation was exceeded! Bocuse provided the dining experience of a lifetime. It was like a seamless concerto with every aspect performed to perfection. If there was an error or a lapse somewhere I certainly couldn't detect it. The food, service and place were spectacular. A highlight among many was the 82 euro truffle soup that I could have continued to eat forever."
Lyon - Pierre Orsi
We went there because a good friend, Christopher Koetke, has been doing some work experience there as a pastry Chef and ended up doing the sauces - the most difficult part in the kitchen symphony.
Pierre Orsi told us that Christopher would end up very famous and he did! He ended up in the best restaurant in his native Chicago, is now doing a TV cooking show called "Let's Dish" and is the Kendall College School of Culinary Arts Vice President there, the most famous school in the US! Christopher also finished third in the U.S. finals of the Bocuse d'Or culinary competition.
Pierre Orsi is my favourite gastronomic restaurant in Lyon and at 115 euros for the degustation menu, you certainly can plan that in your travel budget. The cellar contains about 20,000 bottles!
By the way, Pierre has a brother in Toulouse, Laurent, whose cuisine I tried during that same business trip.
He used to be the Chef at Les Jardins de l'Opera, and still runs his "Bouchon Lyonnais" there
Lyon - the "new' Opera by Jean Nouvel
Lyon - Tourist Office Video - 2 Days in Lyon
Annonay
However, today the town heavily relies on a bus factory who employs 2000 people for its wealth.
But in my mind, it was where my grandmother had a very good lady friend with whom she kept in touch throughout her life. Unfortunately, I cannot recall how they met - I believe she was a school friend who married somebody from Annonay and moved there as a result. Maybe he came and proposed in a Montgolfiere and she could not refuse!
Condrieu, Tupin-et-Semons, Ampuis
Crozes -Hermitage and Cote-Rotie, the biggest plantings of Syrah in the World, and yes, you guessed properly the second biggest place is Australia!
Cote-Rotie is 80% shiraz and 20% Viognier which have to be fermented together (cofermentation) and St Joseph is 80% Shiraz and at least 10% of Marsanne or Roussane in the blend. I do prefer the St Joseph, one, because it is somehow more affordable and two, because of my father's first name (and, no he was not a saint!)
I may have had two or three bottles of Cote-Rotie in my entire life (your contributions are welcome...) but would probably consume at least one bottle a year of St Joseph or Crozes-Hermitage. Now you know!
My favourite winery, Vidal-Fleury, produces all of them:
Côte-Rôtie Côte Blonde, Côte-Rôtie, Hermitage, , Saint-Joseph, Crozes-Hermitage in the north and also
Gigondas, Cornas, Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Vacqueyras, Cairanne, Côtes du Rhône Villages, Côtes du Rhône, Ventoux, and Pays d'Oc in the south of the Rhone valley, and these are just the reds. They also produce the rarer, but very interesting whites: Condrieu, Saint-Joseph, Crozes-Hermitage, Châteauneuf-du-Pape , Côtes du Rhône.
Vienne
Fernant Point trained Paul Bocuse (see next post), the Trois-Gros brothers and many more iconic French michelin starred Chefs. Vienne is on the east side of the Rhone and only 70 kms south of Lyon
Lyon
Leisurely North
But obviously, that would not be fun to tell you that story on this blog - although I love taking the TGV!
So, instead, I have patched up childhood or more recent memories of the places I like along the way, or have some historical connections with my family, or just plain fun, as visiting wineries and tasting my favourite wines!
And the first stop is just that:
Chateauneuf-du-Pape - the jewel of the southern Cotes-du-Rhone
And yes, John XXII was responsible for most of the planting and the improvement of the winemaking.
And according to Wikipedia:
The village and three other surrounding communes produce wine, and Châteauneuf-du-Pape is an Appellation d'Origine Contrôlée (AOC) in the southern Rhône wine region. Unlike its northern Rhône neighbors, Châteauneuf-du-Pape permits thirteen different varieties of grape; the blend is usually predominantly Grenache. Other red grapes include Cinsault, Counoise, Mourvèdre, Muscardin, Syrah, Terret noir, andVaccarèse. White grapes include Grenache blanc, Bourboulenc, Clairette, Picardan, Roussanne, and Picpoul. In recent years, the trend has been to include fewer (or even none) of the allowed white varieties and rely heavily (or solely) upon the Grenache, Mourvèdre, and Syrah. One may suspect that this is a response to international wine-market trends and the desire to have this sometimes-rustic wine appeal to a broader commercial audience.
Below, some of my favourites, Vidal Fleury bien sur, Chateau de la Janasse, one of my dad's favourites and a few more worth your while...just looking at the labels will wet your appetite!
Gigondas
Nyons
Vaison-La-Romaine
Valreas - the "Enclave of the Popes"
Montelimar - the nougat capital
Valence - The Gateway to Provence
Lamastre
If you have some appetite left, you will have to have some morels, the most amazing mushrooms on the Planet,
and, I am afraid, they are even better when soaking into "creme fraiche"....And stay the night to recover!
Today, the Hotel du Midi" is no longer a hotel, just a restaurant, but "Quel restaurant!" See review below
"Un restaurant ? Un monument, sur la place centrale de son gros bourg."Une de ces hostelleries où l'on s'entend manger", affirmait Curnonsky de Barattero, qui détenait alors trois étoiles. Bernard Perrier (photo) continue, bravement, en "one man chaud", la tradition, oeuvre pour la beauté du geste, travaille seul en cuisine, à sauvegarder l'esprit du lieu. Il n'y a plus d'hôtel, mais une salle avec ses stucs au plafond, ses tables peu nombreuses mais soignées, son marbre au sol. L'on goûte avec ravissement la salade tiède de foie gras de canard poêlé aux champignons des bois, le pain d'écrevisses sauce cardinal, la poularde de Bresse en vessie avec sa salade parfumée à l'huile de noisette. On boit le grand Ardèche de Latour et le saint-joseph de chez Courbis, sans omettre de faire un sort aux fromages d'ici, picodon ou saint-félicien. In fine, le soufflé glacé aux châtaignes avec ses deux "sauces" divines (crème anglaise légèrement parfumée au rhum et coulis de framboises) est à tomber par terre."
Uzes - Atzaa, our favourite shop, rue Jacques d'Uzes Some follow recommendations from TripAdvisor, most are places we have visited or experienced ourselves.
Arles
Beaucaire
Nimes
Tarascon
Uzes
From Nimes to Pont du Gard
Pont du Gard
Uzes
It is a "circular" village, as the fortifications have long been replaced by a circular road planted with the traditional platanes (plane trees) and lined up with nice cafes and restaurants and an inordinate number of banks!
It is not as bad as Luxembourg, though, where banks alternate with pastry shops siphoning your money into tasteful delights and dreadful calories...
Uzes is also famous for their pots with two factories competing for your trade!
Tarascon
The twin cities of Tarascon and Beaucaire sit on each side of the Rhone, one in Provence, the other one in Languedoc. And they both offer quite a number of attractions. Here are some.
Beaucaire
Nimes
I will try to make good over the week-end with double posting and we will have you back to Paris safely and virtually before May 27th, the official end of this challenge
Author
Born in France, well travelled, relocated to Sydney in 1997.
Loves to cook for family and friends from seasonal and local ingredients. Will give you a taste of France from around the World...virtually!
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