The Promenade Cafe is a stylish restaurant hidden away in the heart (or should I say "le ventre"...) of the Park Hyatt Hotel in Canberra, the best 5-star hotel in town. President Obama stayed there for one night during his recent (and very short...) trip to Australia. I was there the following night...The Art Deco architecture dating back to the 1920s has been carefully renovated and provides a stylish backdrop for a business lunch, a romantic dinner or a celebration of the new season asparagus!
One of the Canberra region best wineries, Lerida Estate on the shore of Lake George - and housed in one of the most minimalist Glenn Murcutt structures - were the sponsor of the evening, sharing with the Chefs - Jiju Rajappen, Chef de Cuisine, is now in charge of the Private Club, and Executive Chef Walter Junger - the difficult task to pair the food on a well constructed degustation menu with a large array of the winery's production. The lot was priced a ridiculously low 120$ INCLUDING the wines, which were served generously all throughout the dinner.
Jim Lumbers and Anne Caine established Lerida Estate in 1997 and in 2005 appointed a full-time winemaker, Malcolm Burdett. Jim, Anne, Malcom and his wife Cathy were all in attendance. I had the pleasure and privilege to share a table with Malcom and Cathy as well two other journalists Greg Jones and Mara, who happens to be Jiju's wife! It made for great conversation, with an added twist, as Malcolm is vegetarian (definitely no meat in wine!!!) and English, not the best heritage to grow vines, but he trained as a Chef, so it is all good!
Lerida Estate has a tradition to invite a young French winemaker every year for the "vendanges".
Their bios make for interesting reading on their website: http://www.leridaestate.com.au/pages/Our-Winemakers.html
By the way, to be in tune with the 'heritage" look of the Hyatt Hotel, I have chosen to set my Olympus E-PL1 as a 6x6 camera, pretending to be an old Rollei, one of the cameras I trained with when I was a teenager (my first real camera was a "third-hand" 6x9 Voigtlander that belonged to my Dad and my grandfather before...). I hope you enjoy this vintage format!
One of the Canberra region best wineries, Lerida Estate on the shore of Lake George - and housed in one of the most minimalist Glenn Murcutt structures - were the sponsor of the evening, sharing with the Chefs - Jiju Rajappen, Chef de Cuisine, is now in charge of the Private Club, and Executive Chef Walter Junger - the difficult task to pair the food on a well constructed degustation menu with a large array of the winery's production. The lot was priced a ridiculously low 120$ INCLUDING the wines, which were served generously all throughout the dinner.
Jim Lumbers and Anne Caine established Lerida Estate in 1997 and in 2005 appointed a full-time winemaker, Malcolm Burdett. Jim, Anne, Malcom and his wife Cathy were all in attendance. I had the pleasure and privilege to share a table with Malcom and Cathy as well two other journalists Greg Jones and Mara, who happens to be Jiju's wife! It made for great conversation, with an added twist, as Malcolm is vegetarian (definitely no meat in wine!!!) and English, not the best heritage to grow vines, but he trained as a Chef, so it is all good!
Lerida Estate has a tradition to invite a young French winemaker every year for the "vendanges".
Their bios make for interesting reading on their website: http://www.leridaestate.com.au/pages/Our-Winemakers.html
By the way, to be in tune with the 'heritage" look of the Hyatt Hotel, I have chosen to set my Olympus E-PL1 as a 6x6 camera, pretending to be an old Rollei, one of the cameras I trained with when I was a teenager (my first real camera was a "third-hand" 6x9 Voigtlander that belonged to my Dad and my grandfather before...). I hope you enjoy this vintage format!
BUBBLES FOR STARTERS - 2008 LERIDA ESTATE BRUT ROSE
We were barely seated that we were proposed with a flute of 2008 Lerida Estate Brut Rose.
"An intriguingly complex sparkling wine made from 75% Pinot Noir and 25% Chardonnay grown at our vineyard at Lake George. It shows an attractive orange pink colour with a fine persistent bead. The bouquet is complex from the mix of primary fruit characters (peaches, pears & cherries), plus biscuity, bready characters. The palate is rich and flavoursome balanced by crisp acidity."
I could not say it better...
The home made bread and the butter from far away Echiré in the Marais Poitevin in the west of France were a delicious counterpoint to this refined and elegant non Champagne.
My uncle used to own a "moulin a eau" in the middle of the river near Echiré, so I had my fair share of that butter over the years and it is quite a treat to be able to get it ere in the Antipodes!
"An intriguingly complex sparkling wine made from 75% Pinot Noir and 25% Chardonnay grown at our vineyard at Lake George. It shows an attractive orange pink colour with a fine persistent bead. The bouquet is complex from the mix of primary fruit characters (peaches, pears & cherries), plus biscuity, bready characters. The palate is rich and flavoursome balanced by crisp acidity."
I could not say it better...
The home made bread and the butter from far away Echiré in the Marais Poitevin in the west of France were a delicious counterpoint to this refined and elegant non Champagne.
My uncle used to own a "moulin a eau" in the middle of the river near Echiré, so I had my fair share of that butter over the years and it is quite a treat to be able to get it ere in the Antipodes!
CREAM OF ASPARAGUS, TRUFFLE AND PARMESAN BISCUIT
2011 LERIDA ESTATE PINOT GRIGIO
The smoothness of the soup, the crackling of the biscuit and the lovely 2011 Lerida Estate Pinot Grigio were a very good start to this asparagus adventure.
"This wine is made from Pinot Gris grapes grown at four vineyards in the Canberra District (including Lerida Estate). On the nose, it shows honeysuckle, violets, apple, pear and citrus aromas. The palate is rich and flavoursome with a long citrusy finish and some savoury characters"
A very good match withe asparagus, or on its own (like the glass I had previously... waiting for people to arrive)
"This wine is made from Pinot Gris grapes grown at four vineyards in the Canberra District (including Lerida Estate). On the nose, it shows honeysuckle, violets, apple, pear and citrus aromas. The palate is rich and flavoursome with a long citrusy finish and some savoury characters"
A very good match withe asparagus, or on its own (like the glass I had previously... waiting for people to arrive)
PEACH WOOD SMOKED SEA SCALLOP, SALMON CAVIAR & SOY BEAN ON AN ASPARAGUS FIELD
2008 LERIDA ESTATE "CULLERIN" PINOT NOIR
What a beautiful dish! Beautiful to look at, to the point we were all hesitating tasting it, but when we eventually did,
what a beautiful combination of flavours. If you have followed this blog for a while, you willl know that I am a great fan of the scallop, and usually my preference is for the simpliest of treatment, not to tamper with its delicate texture and taste.
It is a great achievement to manage that mix of saveurs, a bit like a slow motion firework, each flavour revealing itself over time. There is no way you can eat this quickly - you have to almost imagine the taste of the next mouthfull before you can dig it!
The pairing with a Pinot Noir was unorthodox, but did work, although I might have reorganised the whole thing differently - more on that later...
The 2008 Lerida Estate "Cullerin" Pinot NoirThis " was selected for a more fruit driven style of Pinot Noir with 20% new wood giving a softer finish. The aromas are of red cherry, mulberry, gamey and savory with a slight overtone of vanilla. The palate is soft and rich backed by silky, textured tannins on a long finish". Very silky indeed!
what a beautiful combination of flavours. If you have followed this blog for a while, you willl know that I am a great fan of the scallop, and usually my preference is for the simpliest of treatment, not to tamper with its delicate texture and taste.
It is a great achievement to manage that mix of saveurs, a bit like a slow motion firework, each flavour revealing itself over time. There is no way you can eat this quickly - you have to almost imagine the taste of the next mouthfull before you can dig it!
The pairing with a Pinot Noir was unorthodox, but did work, although I might have reorganised the whole thing differently - more on that later...
The 2008 Lerida Estate "Cullerin" Pinot NoirThis " was selected for a more fruit driven style of Pinot Noir with 20% new wood giving a softer finish. The aromas are of red cherry, mulberry, gamey and savory with a slight overtone of vanilla. The palate is soft and rich backed by silky, textured tannins on a long finish". Very silky indeed!
SLOW ROASTED PHEASANT WITH ASPARAGUS PUREE, HERB FLOWERS, WILD MUSHROOMS, DUCK LIVER & GIZZARD SAUCE
2010 LERIDA ESTATE PINOT ROSÉ SUR LIE
Lovely presentation, nice combination of textures and tastes, simple treatment of the game meat
"This unique Rosé with onion skin hues was fermented in old French oak and lees stirred for 12 months. This bone dry Rosé has Lerida's signature bright cherry, raspberry and rose petal fruit with a spicy contrast. The fruit is wonderfully balanced with a complex, mouth filling texture and a very long finish. This is a superb food wine. The wine is mainly Pinot Noir with 8% Shiraz which adds
elusive spicy and cedar notes. All grapes are from Lerida Estate"
A superb Rosé, quite complex, light at first, but with good body in the end. I would have liked to try it with the Scallops...call me old fashioned if you want!
"This unique Rosé with onion skin hues was fermented in old French oak and lees stirred for 12 months. This bone dry Rosé has Lerida's signature bright cherry, raspberry and rose petal fruit with a spicy contrast. The fruit is wonderfully balanced with a complex, mouth filling texture and a very long finish. This is a superb food wine. The wine is mainly Pinot Noir with 8% Shiraz which adds
elusive spicy and cedar notes. All grapes are from Lerida Estate"
A superb Rosé, quite complex, light at first, but with good body in the end. I would have liked to try it with the Scallops...call me old fashioned if you want!
TROU NORMAND - LIME SORBET
Served on a block of ice on a folded napkin for stability and cleanliness, this was an extraordinary "Trou Normand", although there was no Normand in sight - meaning no alcohol with the sorbet, thanks for that! It was a neat cleansing break in our feast, very welcome...
MANDAGERY CREEK VENISON, BEETROOT, BLACKENED ASPARAGUS, NASTURIUM LEAVES AND FORREST BERRIES
2008 LERIDA ESTATE "JOSEPHINE" PINOT NOIR"
This dish triggered a great discussion about why we use the generic term "venison" for deer, where earlier in the meal "pheasant" was named rather than the generic term "game". Are we not game enough to eat deer, or wild boar for that matter, rather than venison?
Malcolm had none of it anyway, as he stuck to more asparagus in cream and various other nice treatments.
This was a very earthy dish, and I loved the beetroot jelly and the raw rasberries - it has to be the German touch of the Executive Chef! Jim came back online to tell us about the choice of this particular Pinot Noir, chosen for its supposedly stronger body than the "Cullerin" we had with the scallops. The problem, I thought, was it was too "steely" and that steelyness completely cut the potential body. I am inclined to say that it would have been more suited to the game, I mean pheasant...
Let me quote an expert: Huon Hooke
'Strawberry and other berries in its perfume. Sappiness suggests whole-bunch fermentation. Savoury, gamey flavours. Fleshy, yet with abundant tannins'
It might well be that, one, we had too much to drink before, two, this wine is still too young to cut the mustard!
Malcolm had none of it anyway, as he stuck to more asparagus in cream and various other nice treatments.
This was a very earthy dish, and I loved the beetroot jelly and the raw rasberries - it has to be the German touch of the Executive Chef! Jim came back online to tell us about the choice of this particular Pinot Noir, chosen for its supposedly stronger body than the "Cullerin" we had with the scallops. The problem, I thought, was it was too "steely" and that steelyness completely cut the potential body. I am inclined to say that it would have been more suited to the game, I mean pheasant...
Let me quote an expert: Huon Hooke
'Strawberry and other berries in its perfume. Sappiness suggests whole-bunch fermentation. Savoury, gamey flavours. Fleshy, yet with abundant tannins'
It might well be that, one, we had too much to drink before, two, this wine is still too young to cut the mustard!
CHOCOLATE SURPRISE - 2010 LERIDA ESTATE BOTRYTIS PINOT GRIS
The surprise was supposed to be different but would have required the use of liquid nitrogen at the table, I have been told. But because of Mr President being in the hotel hours before, the liquid nitrogen was not allowed on the property...
So, we had this lovely chocolate tart, white chocolate ball and chocolate sauce instead, not a big surprise, but certainly a very good tasting one, so thanks Mr President for your low level interference!
Now, for the wine, imagine for a minute we had the "Cullerin" Pinot Noir with the venison, I could have asked for another glass of it - that would have worked a treat with the chocolate...
I know every winery wants to make a Botrytis wine, and this one was certainly good, but quite timid and has "nutty, dried apricot, raisin, spice, apple and marmalade aromas" compared to a 2010 Chateau Filhot , my favourite Sauternes (one that I can afford too...)
"This is an immediately flattering sample, honeyed, and there is a suggestion of oak coming in here to bolster this. The palate has great weight and breadth to it, the impact in the mouth very confident and successful. Rather polished, quite grainy at its core, showing an impressive depth of texture which must hark back to the vintage. And there is a lovely spicy element to the sweet, tropical fruits here"
So, we had this lovely chocolate tart, white chocolate ball and chocolate sauce instead, not a big surprise, but certainly a very good tasting one, so thanks Mr President for your low level interference!
Now, for the wine, imagine for a minute we had the "Cullerin" Pinot Noir with the venison, I could have asked for another glass of it - that would have worked a treat with the chocolate...
I know every winery wants to make a Botrytis wine, and this one was certainly good, but quite timid and has "nutty, dried apricot, raisin, spice, apple and marmalade aromas" compared to a 2010 Chateau Filhot , my favourite Sauternes (one that I can afford too...)
"This is an immediately flattering sample, honeyed, and there is a suggestion of oak coming in here to bolster this. The palate has great weight and breadth to it, the impact in the mouth very confident and successful. Rather polished, quite grainy at its core, showing an impressive depth of texture which must hark back to the vintage. And there is a lovely spicy element to the sweet, tropical fruits here"
IN CONCLUSION
Anne, the owner of Lerida Estate, and Jiju, the Chef de Cuisine concluded the evening by thanking us for coming. We were probably a bit tired and tipsy to give them a standing ovation, but they certainly deserved one! This will remain in my memory one of the most interesting dinner I had, definitely the best I had in Canberra, and I have been coming here for a dozen years or so!
In terms of wine and food pairing, maybe (and I underline maybe...) it would have been interesting to pair the scallops with the Rosé, the game/pheasant with the "Josephine" and the venison/deer with the "Cullerin", so we could have continued with it and the chocolate tart, or chosen to try the Botrytis - food for thought...
In any case, I greatly enjoyed the setting, the company, and the food and wine bien sur!
A shame I could not afford that "Presidential Suite" of yours, as the trip back to the City, on the other side of the Lake Burley Griffin, was fortunately very short, and all the police presence had disappeared...
In terms of wine and food pairing, maybe (and I underline maybe...) it would have been interesting to pair the scallops with the Rosé, the game/pheasant with the "Josephine" and the venison/deer with the "Cullerin", so we could have continued with it and the chocolate tart, or chosen to try the Botrytis - food for thought...
In any case, I greatly enjoyed the setting, the company, and the food and wine bien sur!
A shame I could not afford that "Presidential Suite" of yours, as the trip back to the City, on the other side of the Lake Burley Griffin, was fortunately very short, and all the police presence had disappeared...