This map covers yesterday's post in details and prepares us for the next two episodes. You can either stay on the secondary roads and discover more vineyards in Saint-Verand, Fuisse, Solutre, Pouilly and Lugny and avoid Macon altogether to get straight into Burgundy after staying the night in Tournus, and then go and visit the most famous names of Chassagne-Montrachet, Puligny-Montrachet and Meursault for the whites, and then the reds from Beaune to Dijon Nuits-St-George and Gevrey-Chambertin
The Maconais wines and the Rock of Solutre
This had become an annual pilgrimage for President Francois Mitterand, it was certainly a measure of his determination not to be deterred by the pleasures of life, even after he became very sick. His favourite wine was the Saint-Veran (from the ancient spelling of the village's name - Saint-Verand), and I personally enjoy one of its close relatives, the Macon-Lugny that is readily available in Australia at Vintage Cellars. It is an excellent and affordable example of Chardonnay "a la francaise"...
Technically, this region is part of Burgundy, but Maconais is an Appelation in its own right, and covers the South of Burgundy between Macon and Tournus. It produces mostly Chardonnay grapes, although the Pouilly-Fume is a Sauvignon, and Pouilly-Fuisse is a Chardonnay
Both cities are along the Saone river, both have interesting old buildings, narrow streets and amazing churches.
I think I prefer Tournus, as it has remained smaller. Besides it makes a more convenient stopover between Burgundy South and Burgundy North...
The hotel and restaurant Greuze seems to be shooting for (more than...) one star!
A recent review from TripAdvisor:
“THIS is the ONE- Go there and never forget each moment, each mouthful, each detail.”
"This restaurant could teach many others what really matters to the customer which in my view is a many layered, subtler experience than just the taste of the food. As customers, we do far more than just sit at the table and eat. For the time that we are there, in the restaurant he table is our space. Everything and everyone that approaches it is going to be noticed. We felt so welcomed by the Maitre D' and this welcome continued through the service. Our special occasion was heightened by the way each item that was brought to the table was placed so carefully and mindfully without impatience. Each course was brought with a reverence that allowed a flourish also, a brilliant service style that I would describe as quietly confident. The food was astounding- truly delicious. On the one hand it was as it should be in terms of technical delivery - tenderness, temperature and combination of flavours but on the other hand each mouthful contained the element of surprise and fun and uniqueness. Their style of skillful classicism combined with individualism ran through everything that we noticed and our experience was as significant to us as the first time that we tasted Chef Yohann's cooking 2yrs previously. We plan to make the pilgrimage again next year, staying in greuze hotel also, despite the fact that we live within easy access of London and working within Property Development for the food industry. The reason being that if something comes from the heart it goes to the heart. This came across to us loud and clear. How hard this team must work (many if not all, were the same individuals from 2yrs ago) to create this standard of well mannered delivery of this artistic food. nous vous remercions infiniment to all at Greuze- until next time..."
Bon appetit and bonne nuit! See you tomorrow for a northern Burgundy adventure!
Born in France, well travelled, relocated to Sydney in 1997.
A link here for our non-metric readers: